Perfumery & Beauty
Performance 2023

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Reporting period

The Business Reviews include information from the combined entity for 12 months, which includes Firmenich as of 1 January 2023 (pro forma, see Concepts and ratios). It also includes information that is presented in accordance with IFRS, which includes Firmenich from the merger date onwards – whenever this is used this is specifically indicated.

EcoScent Compass® Next Generation

Expanding on a tool first launched in 2018, EcoScent Compass® Next Generation empowers our perfumers with a wider range of digitally integrated sustainability data, supporting 45 distinct fragrance claims and 20 ingredients claims. By providing our customers with clear, accessible, and trustworthy information via this powerful tool, we help them translate numbers into claims and proof of impact and support the attainment of their sustainability goals.

In January 2023, we launched EcoScent Compass® Next Generation, an integrated, science-based impact measurement tool. It provides robust sustainability data and verifiable claims, enabling a higher degree of precision in sustainable creation and understanding.

PopScent® Eco range

PopScent® Eco Max is one of our biggest innovations in 2023. We reinvented fragrance encapsulation, delivering outstanding long lasting fragrance benefit, with the first range of capsules made with 100% biodegradable ingredients. Starting the development as early as 2015, anticipating European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) rules and investing nearly all R&D resources on finding a performing biodegradable encapsulation technology. This was developed internally, as capabilities had been built over the years in S&R, encapsulation, analytical & biodegradation support and in the Perfumery Poptec and Softener technical lab, and were mobilized towards the same goal.

The PopScent® Eco range, including PopScent® Eco and PopScent® Eco Max, delivers a lasting fragrance experience from wash to wear. Crafted with diverse chemistries and complementary performance profiles, the capsules empower perfumers with the most efficient and versatile tools, offering wide creative flexibility across categories. These versatile capsules, bring high creative and applications flexibility and meet the highest sustainability standards with no compromise on consumer experience.

HaloScent® Berryboost

In July 2023, we launched HaloScent® BerryBoost, a fragrance innovation that releases two different perfumery molecules simultaneously, known as dual-release profragrances. These molecules, which have a low environmental impact due to their biodegradability, are activated through contact with air and water. With a new, patented natural activation technology, and a fruity olfactive profile, HaloScent® BerryBoost elevates the overall product experience, increases the fragrance preference, and enhances consumers’ overall sense of satisfaction. It has applications not only in home care but also in hair care.

Launch of exclusive ingredients

In 2023, we launched an exclusive collection of six natural and synthetic ingredients. This includes two captive ingredients – unique, proprietary scents that cannot be replicated by other perfumers or fragrances houses – that were released to market for the first time. Both were carefully selected by our experts to bring sustainable solutions that meet relevant regulatory requirements to fragrance formulas worldwide. The first, Mimosal™ is an intense green muguet aldehydic note. It is highly performing and offers a long-lasting effect. The second captive ingredient, Ambrette FIRABS, is a unique signature and accessible substitute for Ambrette Absolute.

Two other exclusive ingredients launched in 2023 is Lilyflore® and Upcycled Cardamom Green Pod Guatemala SFE. Lilyflore® is a key ingredient in the floral fragrance market, delighting perfumer palettes with its versatile and modern lily-of-the-valley facets. Upcycled Cardamom Green Pod Guatemala SFE, was created using our Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE) technology. SFE offers several advantages over other extraction technologies, as it reduces solvent use, energy consumption, and emissions while maintaining the integrity of sensitive compounds. The launch of Upcycled Cardamom Green Pod Guatemala SFE and Mimosal™ strengthens our longstanding partnership with NELIXIA, the world’s top cardamom producer, which also offers 100% traceable products. The final two ingredients launched were the powerful and complex Doremox®, which serves as an excellent replacement for rose oxide, and cyclopidene, which, with its the distinctive ylang-ylang quality, functions as a performing alternative to methylparacresol. Predominately biodegradable and designed according to the principles of green chemistry, this collection underlines our leadership and core strength in sustainability.

More about our Ingredients business

Our Ingredients business was impacted by the fire at, and subsequent shutdown of, the Pinova, Inc. ingredients plant in Georgia (USA), and was also affected by low demand in some industrial and some fragrance segments.

Aside from this, we have also commissioned a brand-new Habanolide® facility at our production site in southwest France. Habanolide® is an elegant macrocyclic musk with a warm and slightly woody note, and is a key ingredient in our industry-leading palette. The new state-of-the-art facility will significantly increase the production capacity of this iconic perfume ingredient and help meet the rapidly growing demand for sustainable products.

New center of expertise in China

In 2023, we expanded our global network of creative facilities by opening a new center of expertise in Shanghai (China). Developed and operated in partnership with Xun Laboratory, a perfumery studio rooted in China’s rich history and culture, the center marks another step in expanding the dsm-firmenich customer experience, following the opening of our Fine Fragrance Atelier in Shanghai in 2019 and Studio Guangzhou (likewise in China) in 2021. With this close collaboration, we aim to help customers enhance authentic storytelling that reflects China’s rich olfactive history while introducing even more winning fragrances desired by both local and global brands.

The expert knowledge in ancient ingredients that Xun Laboratory brings to the partnership will also boost the endorsement of unique ingredient sources that are regarded as native to China. Customers in China can benefit from having an unexampled, holistic experience which allows them to rediscover and replicate ancient Chinese fragrance ingredients for use in modern-day creations.

‘Wonder You’

In 2023, we introduced ‘Wonder You’, a global-reaching, cross-segmental beauty offering in the menopause category. This comprehensive product line for skin and hair care includes sun protection factor (SPF), cream, serum, shampoo, and conditioner. Every solution in this collection has been designed to align with consumer trends toward holistic well-being, mindfulness, and celebration of individuality.

Made possible by 40 years of research in personal care science applications and informed by our Skincare Consumer Survey, the ‘Wonder You’ collection affirms our global leadership in providing scientifically proven solutions for menopause with a leading sustainability profile.

Re:New collection

In 2023, we launched the Re:New collection of ten renewable and upcycled ingredients, further increasing the diversity and impact of our renewable palette. This collection is powered by SylverGreen®, our innovation program to drive transformation toward low-carbon, bio-based ingredients.

The ingredients of the Re:New collection are renewable by-products of the wood or paper industries, which are upcycled and transformed at our ingredients facilities into renewable molecules. By following green chemistry principles, we can convert petroleum-based ingredients into renewables without any change to the smell of the final product.

In August 2023, we further strengthened our commitment to green chemistry by signing a joint development agreement with Bloom Biorenewables through which we will accelerate the development of key, low carbon, bio-based ingredients.

EmotiCODE® Focus

The power of scent is enduring, and consumers are still looking to fragrance to improve their mental health and well-being. In our 2023 NewNextNow Barometer consumer insights study, for instance, 85% of consumers surveyed reported that fragrances can help their focus or concentration levels. In 2023, we made considerable progress on developing fragrances that assist in these areas. This progress was due to the launch of EmotiCODE® Focus, our patent-pending design rules for fragrances that are scientifically proven to enhance mental performance. Drawing on 25 years of neuroscientific research, advances in artificial intelligence, and our proprietary ScentMove™ emotional mapping technology, EmotiCODE® Focus has significant potential to drive progress in shareable, memorable, and emotionally resonant perfumery.

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